Oct 3, 2005
We planned to checkout of our hotel by noon and head south out of Paris. We would stay overnight, somewhere, and reach our destination, the Mediterranean town of Montpellier in Langudeoc-Rousillon, on the following day.
Well, not so easy. Stacey thought that somehow we had not visited every last sight in Paris. Shouldn't we arise early and spend a few hours visting Sainte Chapelle, the other exquisite cathedral on the Ile de la Cite (besides Notre Dame). It's known for its magnificent stained glass windows (our friend, Murray, brought this to our attention in a comment on an earlier post). Well, time doesn't always cooperate so neatly. We got on line at La Chapelle, but it was already 10:30. It had been brought to our attention that the car rental office closes (as do most businesses) from 12 to 2. We started to do the math (working backwards from 12 noon) to realize that we were not going to make the cqr pickup on time. Stacey and I decided that, since we were returning to Paris at the end of the trip, we could miss La Chapelle for now. We left the kids to take the tour, ran to the Metro and headed to the rental office on the Right Bank. Of course, when your'e in a hurry, nothing and nobody cooperates. And the office was several blocks, uphill, from the metro station. Good thing we're fit (all those gym visits). We literally ran up the hill for those several blocks and burst into the office at 11:50 - only 10 minutes to spare.
Our car was to be a Citroen Picasso. But the contract from Europe Car also said "or other." And we got the other to rent: a Ford C-Max. We turned up our noses. I really wanted the Citroen. When in France, drive a French car. But it was not to be. The car turned out fine in any case - spacious as European cars go, a diesel - so fuel was less expensive and very comfortable for the four of us with our luggage, cameras, knapsacks, etc.
Stacey and I are veteran travelers - we don't get lost, we're very able with map and directions , we're comfortable on local mass transit and we feel at home just about anywhere we go. We quickly drove to meet the kids back where we left them near the Seine, then back to the hotel to check out and claim our bags, then to some local stores for picnic stuff and then finally, finally the four us headed out of Paris. Hey! Not so easy. One just doesn't drive out of Paris - one takes very clogged streets until one can reach the autoroute several miles beyond the periphery of the city. Construction added to what should have been a short trip to the outer ring. It was a good hour before we reached the outskirts of the city and real highways that would lead us away from the city. We finally found ourselves on tnhe N10 that would connect to the Autoroute that would take us to parts south.
A picnic on the autoroute - we leave Paris, headed south.
Our Ford C-Max van -- courtesy of Euope Car rentals.
Because of all the delays in getting started, we didn't make it very far south as we had planed. Using our guide books, we tried to decide on a good stopping place for the evening. We came up with Moulins, a medieval town in the Auverne region of France. Frommer recommended the Hotel de Paris and we drove up to it and booked a room. It's quite nice travelling in October as rooms were easily available and the concierge was even in a bargaining mood. She reduced the price of one of the rooms from 100 Euros to 79 (the other room was already priced at 79) and we unpacked and set out for dinner.
Our three-star Hotel in Mouin - Hotel de Paris -- yes!
The concierge recommended the Restaurant des Cours, a few blocks away. We walked there, through deserted streets - this was 9:30 on a Monday night an the Moulins-ers were home and ready for the next work day. But the restaurant was charming and sophisticated and other diners were in evidence as well. A delicious meal. Mike was most impressed by the cheese cart brought around at the end of dinner and the friendly young waiter who was eager to practice his English with some Americans passing through his town. He admitted, when queried, that the town doesn't get a lot of tourists from the States.
The hotel recommended this restaurant and it was just lovely!
The next morning we woke to a drizzly and cold day. We took a quick walk around town and found a wonderful chocolatier. The storefront and interior was from 1838 and chocolate had been made there since 1898! It was a gem of turn-of-the-century (19th to 20th, that is)architecture. The chocolate was heavenly as well. Once offered some free samples, well, we were hooked.
Our hotel in Moulins. Cloudy and drizzly ... brrr.
A view of Moulins - cathedral in back, chocolate (blue), in front.
The store is from 1838 - the detail, inside and out, was spectacular.
What a lovely old store. A work of art with gilded ceiling and mural.
The chocolates of B. Serardy, Moulins, France.
We checked out of the hotel and then continued our way down south. It was foggy and misty the whole way down and that prevented us from getting a view of the region - the Auvergne - said to be the wildest and most mysterious in all of France. Consisting of mountains and ancient volcanoes with valleys of lush farmland and tiny, remote villages, it has not been developed to any great extent and is very attractive to outdoor activities - hiking, climbing and exploring nature. The fog, in places, was so thick that it was a little frightening to drive down the high-speed autoroute.
As we drove around a turn in the highway, a sight of the new (and world's highest)bridge at Millau, literally took our breath away. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to stop along the road to take photos, but I have to say that it looked unreal and ethereal in the distance, sitting above the clouds and fog that filled the valley below. It's ultra modern design with thin suspension towers and cables stretch up to the heavens. Words cannot describe it. Take a look at some of these other photos of the bridge at this link on Google and I think you'll agree.
We drove on and passed through a tunnel. At the exit, it was as if we had entered a different land altogether. We were descending from the mountains of the Auvergne, the sun was shining and the sky was a brilliant blue. Looking behind, from where we'd come, were the mountain, the dark-grey clouds and the heavy fog. In front of us were wide plains and the road, stretching on to our destination - Montpellier and the Mediterranean.
Oct 2 2005
On the day before we left Paris for points south, we took in the large flea market: Le marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen, which has been in existence since 1885. We took the metro to its northern-most stop, Port de Clignancourt. In those few minutes of a subway ride, we were transported to the other Paris - more working class, more diverse and definitely poorer. Most tourists never get to see the other Paris, preferring the elegant city of the bourgeois classes - it's pretty, well taken care of, manicured, etc. This neighborhood on the north side was scruffier with somewhat dirtier streets and very crowded with shoppers. Mike said he enjoyed seeing this side of Paris and bumping elbows "with real people for a change."
The flea market is divided into sections, each one dealing with different merchandise: one is clothing, mostly cheap clothing, and shoes and sneakers. Another displayed antiques and objets d'art of all sorts. Then there were marches, akin to an antique mart where merchants had concessions in booths inside a large building. Interspersed with all this activity were various food vendors selling crepes, sandwiches, roasted chestnuts and corn on the cob. It was a very colorful scene.
Metro scene at Cardinal Lemoine station (our station).
Shopping in Paris De Puces - the flea market. Inexpensive clothing in this section.
Crowds check out the flea market at Le march aux puces de Saint-Ouen, Paris' largest flea market and one of its oldest.
Mike or Monseigneur Mike? Which is the real "Mike"?
An old Citroen Ami 8 station wagon from the 60's.(What does this have to do with the flea market? Nothing...I just love Citroens!)
Beads at the flea market.
After a few hours at the flea market and a lunch at a nearby cafe, we got on the metro. We wanted to take a walk around the Tuilleries gardens and see the Louvre. It was Sunday and even though the museum would be half price, we demurred - it would be too crowded and we didn't have a lot of time - it was already late afternoon. But the building and grounds, themselves, were awesomely beautiful and we enjoyed strolling; that is, until the rain started to come down. We made a mad dash into one of the nearby porticos and waited it out. After a few minutes we made our way to the gardens and watched the kids sailing their toy boats. A Parisian moment!
The Louvre metro station, complete with art.
Outside the Louvre - shops lining Rue du Rivoli on the right.
One tiny part of the Louvre Palace - no wonder the masses rose up!
Stacey is sullen in front of Sully (the Pavillion Sully - Louvre).
The south wing of the Louvre and I.M. Pei's Pyramide.
Just Stacey.
Sailing boats at the pond in the Tuilleries.
Old fashioned toys can still be so much fun.
Set it out upon the water and then the wind carries it on its journey to far-away shores.
We took the metro home, weary once again. We rested a bit and set out to the St. Michel area of the Left Bank for dinner at a tiny bistro -- Chez Henri on Rue de Princess, another Frommer choice and a well-made recommendation. Afterwards, back to our hotel for an early start south the next day.
Mike and Lynn, waiting for our table at Chez Henri.
At Chez Henri on Rue de Princess - Left Bank.
October 4. 2005
The last few days are a blur as we walked through various Parisian neighborhoods visiting her famous sights, mingling with her people, eating her food and drinking her wine. Were it not for my digital camera and its date-stamping feature, it would be hard to remember where we've been and when we were there. Sometimes, after a few days travelling, there's a little game we enjoy: what did we do and where did we eat on day 1? Day 2? Day 3?, etc. If we forget (some others write diaries) I can just check my photos to remind us.
My conception of this trip was that we would just soak up the feel of being in Paris. Stroll leisurely through the neighborhoods, sit leisurely at a cafe here and there, window shop the interesting streets, just hang out. Stacey and I have been here several times; we've seen the sights, gone to the museums, etc. But Lynn and Mike have not, so we owed them those visits. And, thus, this visit was one of touring and tiring from touring which I hoped to avoid by just being here. Maybe next time?
....
On our third day here, Ellen suggested a Chopin piano recital that was held in a tiny church near our hotel. We agreed and it was a wonderful experience. Afterwards, we had dinner at Chantaireille, a restaurant on a tiny side street specializing in the cuisine of the Auvergne region. What can one say about French cooking that hasn't already been written about voluminously? I'm sure one can find terrible places in which to dine. We haven't had any yet.
After dinner at ChanAirelle restaurant.
Sitting at a cafe, watching the world go by is, to me, one of the very enjoyable aspects of life in Paris. The weather, by the way, has been chilly. If we're having an extended summer in New York, the autumn has arrived here with a vengeance. Cloudy, moody skies (beautiful for my photos), a nippy wind and temperatures in the low to mid 60's (and even lower at night). But, of course, all the cafes are equipped with propane heaters that whisk the chill away and allow sitting outside in complete comfort. Une cafe e une baguette, sin beuure, si vous plez (my French is awful; but, trutfully, I never studied it, so pardón). That only set me back about 4 or 5 Euros, but you sit as long as you want and the bonus: wifi to upload my blog posts for free and at high speed. C'est bon!
At the Cafe Contrescarpe near our hotel, watching the world go by.
People watching at Place de Contrescarpe, one of Paris' charming squares.
Brian and Ellen took their leave to return to the States and the four of us were on our own. Today, Saturda, October 1st, we would explore royal Paris: the Place de la Concorde, stroll up the Champs Elysees and visit the Arch de Triomphe. Despite the fact that it was October, Paris was still being visited by many, many tourists but I like to think it was somewhat less congested than the summer.
The Obelisk - gift of Egypt to France in the 1850's.
Oh my - a 2CV putters through the Place de la Concorde - you don't see many of those any more. The obelisk lines up with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
The arch is visible down the Champs Elysees as viewed from the Place de la Concorde.
Champs Elysee - London Planes have been French poodled.
It's been written about over and over - the American commercial invasion of Europe and of France. And how the French have resisted. Disney Paris was a failure, but since turned around and said to be very succesful. McDonald's is omnipresnt - but one man (a hero in French eyes, and in my too) even set fire to a McDonald's in southern France in protest of the dire economic consequences (to French farmers) of McDonald's penetration. And it has wrenched my heart to see those fast-fooderies everywhere we go. But the Champs Elysees has been a victim of American commercialization for a long time now and it was even more evident now. As we walked, we passed one store after another, inhabited by this and that American store and corporate giant. Were we in Soho or in Paris?
Is this France? What has become of the Champs Elysees - for many years now.
Stacey on the Champs.
Cafes and strollers - near the Arch de Triomphe.
12 avenues enter and leave the circle that surrounds the Arch de Triomphe!
We took a metro to Les Halles (or what had been the huge market in years past - now a modern and giant shopping center) to visit the touristy (but wonderful) Au Pie du Cochon restaurant, where Stacey and I had dined back in the 70's. It was said to have the best onion soup in Paris (and according to Frommer's still does). We sat in this splendidly decorated restaurant and lunched on huitres (oysters), snails and onion soup. Tres delicieaux! The restaurant is so named (at the foot of the pig) because its other specialty, besides the soup, is "pig's trotters" ... yep, pigs feet, served every which way.
Four Americans at Au Pie du Cochon in Les Halles.
Huitres (oysters) at Au Pie du Cuchon (at the foot of the pig) in Les Halles.
A beautiful restaurant - in year's past a working man's lunch spot -- no longer -- now an expensive restaurant frequented mostly by tourists.
After lunch we wandered around the neighborhood and then found the Cathedral of St. Ephraim - said to be second only to Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cite. And, indeed, it was splendid. The organ is the largest in France and the church was so tall inside that one could image midevil people believing that they were in the presence of God and heaven.
Mass was taking place while we visited.
St. Ephraim's cathedral near Les Halles...reaching to heaven.
Leaving the church through a back alley.
After resting up a bit at the hotel, we set off for the Eiffel Tower at sunset. This time with Mike and Lynn (who had not been there earlier). This time we took the elevator to the top, after a long wait of an hour or so and the views were magnificent. There she was Paris and environs, sparkling in the night.
The tower at dusk.
The Seine at night from the Eiffel Tower. The Arch de Triomphe lit up in the distance.
The Trocadero across the seine from the Tour Eiffel.
No title necessary, is there?
We took the metro back to our hotel - a very long day. A very satisfying one. But so much walking. Oy, my legs, my back, my body!
Sept 30, 2005
Lynn and Mike were feeling the jet lag and begged off from dinner. So Ellen and Brian and Stacey and I decided we would head for the Tour Eiffel for dinner in that neighborhood and then an evening viewing of the tower.
Sunset on Rue Cardinal Lemoine as we started out for dinner.
Nightime is the best time for seeing the tower as it is splendidly illuminated - it looks like a golden needle. Monseur Eiffel designed it for the 1889 Worlds Fair and it was to be a demonstration of the tremendous strength of steel. Indeed, it is said that with that demonstration, it became clear to many designers and architects that the modern skyscraper was possible using steel as its skeleton. The Tower inspired huge controversy and made some people furious in their detestation, including many of the leading intellects of the day. One called it a "hollow candlestick." But over their objections it quickly became identified with Paris and beloved by Parisians and the world. No amount of photographs or words can describe ones feelings when confronted by its awesome size and grandeur. It is simply and overwhelmingly beautiful and graceful.
Getting off the train and walking around the corner - Oh! There it is. It inspires the same feeling in me as viewing the Empire State Building as you walk around Manhattan, but even more impressive.
Taking the Number 10 Metro to Le Clos de Gourmet near the Tour Eiffel.
We saw the Eiffel Tower walking down the street. (yuk, yuk).
Like the Empire State Building in New York, the Tour Eiffel is glimpsed here and there and always beautiful.
Dinner was at Le Clos de Gourmets, a Frommer Guide Book recommendation and, as is true most of the time, he was right on the money. Not too expensive, we chose the EUR33 (about $40) prix fixe dinner and we were not disappointed. The women chose a starter fricasee of wild mushrooms and snails in a cream sauce that was heavenly (I got a sample). For the main course, I had, hold your breath, the "crusty head of a pig." At least that was the somewhat stilted translation on the English menu. However, I'm a pork junky so the description piqued my interest. "Oh, no, no, no", the waiter said, slapping his face. "It's the cheek of the pig, not the whole head." "OK, I'll try it." And it was wonderful. The others had skate (which has become a favorite of Stacey's and mine back in the States). Skate, for those of you not in the know, is a ray (is a ray a fish?) with a delicious and flaky white meat.
After dinner at Le Clos de Gourmets.
On Rue Rapp - Le Clos Des Gourmets
Dinner was over and we needed a closer look at the Tower. It was just a block or two away and off we went. The lacey beauty of the steel work is evident as you get closer. Eiffel had put more than just steel into this tower - each beam is decorated with lovely filligree and those graceful curves in the support beams that comport to give it its magical appearance. Every hour, starting at eight, and continuing for 10 minutes, strobes are flashed in a dizzying and random pattern the through the height of the tower so that it seems to be covered with tiny bright dancing lights. Spectacular!
Around the corner from our restaurant and just a short walk away.
Beautiful curves and inlaid design elements make a simple tower an elegant thing of beauty.
Up and up it goes.
Le Tour Eiffel.
We walked to the Metro through the Champs de Mars - the vast field adjacent to the tower, at the other end of which is the Ecole Militaire - where wounded soldiers from the Frances' wars (and there were many of them) were cared for. It had been a long day and a long night, but filled with exciting Parisian sights. Even though we had been to Paris several times before, it was not failing to attract and excite us once again.
Your Blog hostess and host - tired but happy, on the way back to the hotel.
