From Paris Avec Amor!

Sep 29, 2005

Mike and Lynn wouldn't be in till noon, we figured, so we had some breakfast with Ellen and Brian and then they went off to see some churches (their favorite activity) and we thought we'd hang out near the hotel waiting for the kids.

You've probably heard that Paris is expensive. This is true. But if you're familiar with New York City prices then you'll find yourself in the same ball park when in Paris. But still ... even in Manhattan you can find a coffee shop special for breakfast - two eggs with bacon, toast and coffee for four or five bucks. No such luck in Paris. Of course, the French don't eat eggs and meat for breakfast, just coffee (espresso or cafe au lait) and a pastry or bread and jam. Typically that's about 8 Euro and up (about $9.60) -- quite a pretty penny for a simple continental breakfast.

So Ellen and Brian taught us their routine - they found a cute little coffee shop where an espresso cost one euro. First, however, they stop in at a nice boulangerie for some pastries or baguette. The coffee shop, which doesn't serve food, just coffee, has a few outside tables around which you can stand and enjoy your coffee (and now your pastry as well). One-third the price. Twice the fun!


First stop - the bakery for a baguette - impossible to find bad bread in Paris.


Our morning coffee at Cafes Marc.

Ellen and Brian set off for their church outing after the four of us returned to the hotel. As Stacey and I entered the hotel, who should we find there but Lynn and Mike, just arrived. Their room was not yet ready so the four of us took a quick walk around. Their flight was eleven hours long, direct from L.A. to France and so they were tired. But hungry too and we took them around the corner where the very popular grilled sandwiches were piled high in dozens of shops that lined the cute little street near our hotel: Rue Moufettard. Take your choice: ham and cheeze, tuna, chicken and more - piled neatly in the displays of the shop windows, ready to be chosen and then grilled and served, wrapped in paper, to be eaten while you continue your walk down the street.


Lynn, newly arrived, with a grilled sandwich and French soda. Ooh la la!

We continued our stroll and walked around a corner to view a sight that took our breath away - the Pantheon which Louis XV had built in 1744. Being ill, he had pledged that if he recovered he would replace a ruined church with one that would glorify the patron saint of Paris: St-Genevieve. Built with a commanding view of all of Paris it wasn't completed until 1789 and no sooner than its completion the revolutionaries, who in charge by then, changed its raison d'etre from religion to that of a mausoleum for the remains of great Frenchman.

Twice since then it has reverted to being a church, only to become again a temple to the great men of France. Among those buried in its necropolis are Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, Marat, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, and Soufflot its architect.


The Pantheon, Paris, where great French men (and women?) of history are buried.


Lynn and Mike at Pantheon Place.


The Pantheon, Paris.

Stacey and I had done this same walk the night before and here is the Pantheon viewed from the distance at night.


The Pantheon at night. Viewed from Boulevard St. Michel the night before.

In view of the gas price scandal that Bush has unleashed on us ... it's interesting to note how the Europeans, and in this case the French, have dealt with transportation all these years. First and foremost they have invested in mass transit. The Metro is a thing of beauty - quick, clean and efficient - a joy to use and relatively inexpensive. And the inter-urban railroad system, as well, modern and hi-tech, takes one to the furthest extremes of France using a high-speed network of trains, including the TGV (tren grande vitesse - high speed train). These bullet trains can deliver you from Paris to the beaches of the Mediterranean in a matter of three or four hours.

As for me, I've always been enthralled with French (and other foreign) cars. I love the funky French design ethic. I had a couple of Deaux Chevaux, aka 2CV's in the 70's. And their cars - sip gas. No bloated, earth-killing Hummers here. Instead, a plethora of tiny and efficient autos, including the Mercedes/Swatch Smart Car which seats two and is the ultimate city car. It makes you wonder at the killer-like choke-hold the oil and car industries have over our government. (Although it's no wonder with the Oil President in power).


Here and there, a few Citroen 2CV's from the old days.



Smart Car - Boulevard St. Germaine. This car is so small it can be parked side to side or front to the curb, no matter.

We continued along and found our self soon at the Seine where we crossed the bridge onto the Ile de la Cite - where the nucleus of Paris was born in ancient times. And here, of course, was the cathedral of Notre Dame. Throngs of people, tourists like us, were crowding the area, but we figured it was better to be here in late September than be overwhelmed during the high summer season.


Notre Dame and the Seine.


Feeding the sparrows at Notre Dame.


Notre Dame - ancient beauty.


Rose window in Notre Dame.


Notre Dame from across the Seine.


......

In my next post -- the kids collapse from exhaustion and the Egans and we have dinner near the Tour Eiffel.

A Bientot --- From France With Love.

Sep 29, 2005

No sooner did we arrive home from California then we were on the road again - to the giant peace march in Washington DC on September 24th. What? You say you didn't know that some 300,000 or more Americans were in their nation's capitol, marching past their White House, demanding that the President stop the lying and stop the dying by bring the troops home now -- safe and alive. It's amazing how that's not news, isn't it? Well, I was there and have the photos to prove it - and, by and large, this somehow escaped coverage, before and after, in what passes for this country's version of journalism.

More on the peace march in another post. But we did return home from Washington and packed our bags for a long-planned trip to France. We were meeting our good friends, Ellen and Brian in Paris. They were ending their vacation; we were beginning ours and we agreed to overlap for a few days. During the planning we asked our kids to join us. Dani and Erik couldn't get away, but Michael and his girlfriend, Lynn, said yes -- and so they are here with us.

On Tuesday, September 27th, our regular driver, Thomas, a gentleman who hails from the Georgian Republic, picked us up at 6 pm and took us, quickly, to JFK airport. As usual, he argued with us about the proper route. I told him to take Eastern Parkway. He wanted to use Linden Boulevard: "Leenden Booleevard - best!" - he insisted. "No, not from here," I replied. A few moments of silence and then "Leenden Booleevard - best!" Back and forth this discussion went as he drove along.I won the argument. We reached the airport in a mere 30 minutes. Thomas was impressed.


At the Brooklyn Bar - JFK Airport (which is in Queens) - getting ready to fly to Paris.

Air France to Paris was not Jet Blue to L.A. True, we were served dinner as it was an international flight and the food was not bad as airline food goes. But the plane was well used and a bit faded, it seemed to me, the onflight entertainment limited and the displays a bit grainy. Nevertheless, in six hours we were on the ground at Charles De Gaulle, claiming our luggage and finding our way to the RER (the suburban/urban metro). We switched to the Metro at the St. Michel station and in another few stops, reached our destination: the Hotel Grand des Grand Ecoles on Rue Cardinal Lemoine, a lovely place at the rear of a wonderful garden, well set back from the narrow street from which we entered.


Stacey, on the RER -- take the train from the plane -- on the way to Paris


Our hotel, at the rear of a lovely couryard and garden.

Our room was not ready when we arrived at noon, so we left our bags and headed out for some exploration and food. The neighborhood we were in on the Left Bank was perfect we thought. We were out of the hectic St. Germaine Boulevard with crowds of tourists and tourist attractions. This was a bit more laid back, filled with students from the neighboring Sorbonne and other schools and packed with inexpensive restaurants and interesting shops. Not to mention the omnipresent Parisian charm and beautiful architecture.


Rue Lemoine - where our hotel is located: narrow streets, beautiful buildings, Parisian charm.

We had lunch at Le Descartes, a cafe right outside the entrance to our hotel, took a little walk and then returned to our room (which was ready now). We also found our friends, Brian and Ellen, who had returned from an outing. They took us a for a walk around our neighborhood; they had been here almost a week already and knew it well. Here was their favorite bakery, there the cheese shop and there a great place for inexpensive wines. And, oh yes, at that place you can have an espresso for one euro!


We met Ellen and Brian at our hotel when we returned from lunch.



Beautiful flower shops abound - here on Rue Monge.


Beautiful buildings on the Left Bank...you could walk, endlessly, for hours.

Probably one reason we love Paris so much is the food. Same thing in New York, no? But here the presentation is taken to the extreme. Beautifully displayed - Sandwiches piled on high, wine in bins out in the street, seafood with oysters, shrimp, lobsters and fish lovingly presented. Everywhere we walked, restaurants, cafes with the attendant people watchers, boulangeries with assorted French breads (you can't buy bad bread in Paris), cheese stores with 1000's of varieties, and on, and on.


Salmon mousse, anyone?


Roast chickens and potatoes - being prepared on the street near our hotel. Food -- everywhere!

We returned to the hotel - jet lag had finally set in and I needed to lie down for a while. It was six hours later here, but my body thought it was still in New York and that I should be in bed, even though it was only late afternoon here. We'd rest for a while and then have a late dinner by ourselves. Brian and Ellen had reservations at the Opera.

Stacey and I rested and then, knowing we should fight our exhaustion and stay up as late as possible in order to quickly adapt to the time shift, set out for an evening walk and dinner. We walked toward Boulevard St. Germaine - the center of the Latin Quarter. Touristy or not, it was exciting and beautiful and was alive with people strolling or eating. We walked and walked until we had reached St. Michel - quite a distance and then headed back to our hotel for dinner nearby.


Boulevard St. Michel was filled with people strolling the evening. Very exciting and alive.

Lynn and Mike were arriving tomorrow and we needed to be rested so we could help them adapt: our plane trip from New York had been six hours. Theirs would be an 11 hour trip and we knew they would be tired on arrival. We hit our bed and fell asleep in about 7 seconds maybe 5.

On The Road -- Again. Part VIA Visit With Some More Cousins

September 17, 2004

Our week was rapidly coming to a close with the approaching weekend and the reason we had come west in the first place: the wedding of our friends' son, Jonathan to his fiance, Carrie. We checked out of our hotel in Hollywood, picked up Lynn and Mike and drove down the coast to the Palos Verdes peninsula. This beautiful headland juts into the Pacific and rises high above it with glorious views in all directions.

Our hotel for the weekend was the Renaissance in Long Beach and tonight's (Saturday) rehearsal dinner would be in the Long Beach Aquarium. The wedding, however, would be at the Trump National Golf Club in Palos Verdes. Before checking in to the hotel we headed for Beverly and Jay's (my cousin and Aunt Sissy's son) home on the peninsula. They have a lovely house that looks out over the Port of Los Angeles and Long Beach, said to be the largest port in the United States, handling all of those Chinese imports that fill our stores today.

Beverly and Jay and one of their daughters , Lyric, greeted us with a sumptuous brunch and took us on a tour of their beautiful home. Their other daughter, Kenya, was away at college. We were up high and one could see for miles around. Though the busy port was spread out below us, it was peaceful and quiet at their house.


Sissy - happy to see her granddaughter Lyric.


Beverly made us feel very welcome - a beautiful brunch had been prepared.


Lots to choose from.


The two "L's" - Lynn and Lyric.


Two beauties -- Stacey and Beverly.


Mike, Lynn, Jay and Beverly.


Our hosts.


Sissy and Beverly in the garden after lunch.

After lunch we hung out in the garden. It was a nice visit with my cousin Jay and his family. Since we were headed to Long Beach and our new hotel, Jay had kindly offered to drive Lynn and Mike back to L.A., not a short trip. So we made plans for our departure on Monday, just two days away. Jay would meet us at the airport with Sissy who would accompany us on the flight back to New York.

We checked into the Renaissance Hotel in Long Beach and got ready for the rehearsal dinner that night, just a few blocks away in the aquarium on the waterfront of that pretty, seaside town.

On The Road -- Again. Part V The Whole Family Gathers At Lizzy's

We really didn't mind the running here and there. As I've said, it makes 5 days expand into several weeks (in one's perception). After dropping in at Mildred's, we made our way back to our hotel and freshened up. Lynn was taking a bus from downtown to Mike's work place, saving time by avoiding separate trips to fetch her and him.

Lizzy and her boyfriend, Shawn, live up in the Hollywood Hills, not far from our hotel, in a house they recently bought. Up and up we climbed, the road twisting and turning the higher we went. The Hills are amazing, with fabulous houses perched (precariously, it seemed) one on top of the other as the road switches back to reach each new level. Of course, the view looks down upon the communities below (where the commoners live) or out into the distance and the towers of downtown . Quite beautiful.

Assembled at Lizzy and Shawn's , besides our entourage, were Janie (Lizzy's mom, unexpectedly and coincidentally in town the same time as us; a pleasant surprise), Josh (Stacey's cousin Steffi's older son), his girlfriend Erin, and an old friend of Lizzy's, Brandon.

Lizzy is very talented and creative - she writes, designs jewelry and, unbeknownst to us previously, cooks. Tonight she was demonstrating this new-to-us facet by cooking up a storm of a dinner - a wonderful pasta carbonara and stuffed peppers. Good bread was set out along with a nice spread of appetizers and a selection of wines and drinks to keep us satisfied as Lizzy cooked, talked, took us on a tour of her new house, cooked, talked, etc. Dinner was a few hours away. But we were having fun with this mini-reunion of young family from back east, many of whom were now living in L.A.


Lizzy shows off her cooking talent.


Janie, Mike, Erin and Josh gathered around the yummies.


Shawn - chewey bread is the staff of life.


Lizzy and Janie Press - daughter and mom!


Josh - plays the guitar??


That's Matthew and Janie.


The family gathers around for reminiscences.


Josh and Erin - sweethearts.


The fabulous cake from Muriel's Belwood Bakery. Almost too pretty to eat -- but we did.

It was a wonderful evening - filled with reminiscences of old family times back on the east coast. It was great seeing Mike and his cousins and friends united in this cozy setting at Lizzy's place. The only ones not here were Danielle and Erik, and they were missed. Before we knew it, it was after midnight. Another long day in L.A. filled with pleasant memories. Tomorrow, Saturday, we were leaving town and driving south to Long Beach and Palos Verdes. We would be visiting my cousin Jay and his wife Beverly - that's where my Aunt Sissy was staying. Then on to the Jon and Carrie's wedding on Sunday and beyond that ... home.

Stay tuned for the final chapters of our L.A. trip.

On The Road -- Again. Part IV

You New Yawkers know that our city is one helluva diverse meltin' pot, right? Well, say hello to Los Angeles which shares that greatness with our home town. There is a wonderful feel to this city with a blend of peoples from all over the planet. With a great and increasingly powerful Latino populace, the city just elected its first Latino mayor in many decades -- Antonio Villaraigosa. This was accomplished by unifying progressive forces, including strong labor support plus the Latino, Black and Jewish communities. Walking the streets, window shopping, strolling through various communities, gives you a strong and colorful impression of the varied composition of the Los Angeles population.

And like New York, there's a lot of character here. Bland it's not. But one big difference we observed (and liked a lot) was the behavior of drivers and their counterparts, pedestrians. Even though the city is overwhelmed and overflowing with cars, drivers are for the most part, well behaved. We heard no horns being blared constantly (or at all, for that matter) as soon as the light turned green. Put a foot in the street, or even appear to be getting ready to cross the street, and cars immediately come to a full stop and wait, patiently, for you to cross the street. Amazing, we thought. And why did that habit not take root in New York (even though, formally, the law is on the books) where you take your life in your hands when crossing the streets?

On the other hand, pedestrians are expected to behave properly also: Walk, Don't Walk signs are obeyed without exception. Jaywalking does not exist. And, if you're a transplanted New Yorker and forget, you'll be ticketed and the fine is heavy duty. But the system works and I'd love to know the statistics of car/pedestrian injuries and fatalities: L.A. vs. N.Y. I'd be very surprised if L.A. was not much lower than New York.


Unusual couple on Santa Monica's 3rd Street. L.A. has its share of characters.


L.A. - still star crazy - fans line up on Hollywood Boulevard to see Johnny Depp stick his hands in cement. (shot from my car - they couldn't believe I was shooting them and not Depp).

....

Visiting L.A. means visiting family. And there's lots of that there for me. Lots of cousins, a son, a niece, and so on. We were on our way to meet my cousin Muriel in Santa Monica for lunch. Stacey and I had some extra time and walked around the pedestrianized 3rd Street, lined with performing buskers and cute shops and cafes. Muriel drove up, we hopped into her car and heaed to the adjacent town of Venice for lunch at the Rose Cafe.

After lunch we followed her, via a beautiful street - Montana Avenue - to her bakery that her husband Ken runs with his brothers - the Belwood Bakery off of Barrington Avenue. Muriel stuffed several boxes with pastries and cake for our next family visit -- in the evening we'd visit our niece Lizzy and her boyfriend, Shawn in their grand new house up in the Hollywood hills.


My lovely cousin Muriel, packing some goodies for us at her bakery.


A 26 on Zagat - and rightfully so!


Hmmm, now what could this kid be eyeing here?

....

After the bakery, and of course, as always, it was late again, we made our way through horrible street traffic from Brentwood to Hollywood for a visit to Muriel's mom, Mildred. The trip should have been 15 minutes but it took us an hour, giving us just a few minutes to say hello and goodbye. Mildred was married to my father's first cousin (and close, boyhood friend), Maxie. Despite the short visit, Mildred was very happy to see us, contacts with her past and the family left behind in New York (she and Maxie left for L.A. in 1949).


Mildred Persh - at home on Fairfax Avenue.


Muriel, Stacey and me - visiting Mildred.

In my next post - we visit our niece, Lizzy Press and Shawn Hatosy in their new home, high up in the "hills." Don't miss it!

On The Road -- Again. Part III

My friend Matt lives not far away from Los Angeles in Whittier. On this, our second visit out west, we called him to set up a date with him and his friend, Maya. Matt is an old friend of mine from the '70's and we've shared political activism, good friendship and many wonderful times.

He suggested that Stacey and I meet him at the pier in Redondo Beach. Stacey wanted to see Manhattan Beach since we lived in the east coast neighborhood of the same name for so many years. But Matt, knowing the area for so long, felt that Redondo was more interesting and a nicer place to visit. And so we set out on the freeway, heading west to the coast and then down south a bit.

The beach communities on the southern California coast are lovely indeed. Very beachy and laid-back, they seem to be given loving attention by their local governments. Lovely promenades and boardwalks, good eating places and shops interspersed with colorful marinas all conspire to make them a desirable living area and destination for visitors. Redondo Beach didn't disappoint.


The Marina and pier at Redondo Beach.

Along the pier were some interesting fish markets selling a wide variety of fish, crab, clams and oysters. One could also select a piece of fish and the market would cook it for you to be eaten in the rough on picnic tables. We selected some oysters from several dozen types being offered and Matt and I picked out a piece of salmon and fresh Alaskan halibut for broiling. What a feast!


Eat clams - love longer? Well, they were delicious anyway.


Dozens of different types of oysters - we tried a lot!


Matt (the other Matt) and Stacey watch as our oysters are opened and served.


The pier at Redondo is a lovely place to fish or stroll and take in the fabulous Pacific views.


Lovely Redondo Beach vacation homes, boardwalk and beach.

After lunch we walked around the pier and promenade and then bade farewell to Matt. We were joining him and Maya for dinner and a jazz concert later that evening. We had to get ourselves back to the hotel to relax and freshen up a bit.

After a quick change and brief rest, we drove from our Hotel in Hollywood, downtown to fetch Lynn and Mike and the four of us met Matt and Maya at Versailles Restaurant. This eatery, on Venice Avenue, is one of several in a mini-chain of authentic Cuban restaurants in Los Angeles. We had eaten at one of their places last time, enjoyed it and wanted to try it again. The garlic-soaked chicken and pork (Lechón) dishes are the specialties. Add a side of moros and christianos (black beans and rice)and you're in Havana heaven. Delicious and inexpensive too. That's why these restaurants often have long lines waiting to get in.


Mike, Lynn and Stace at Versailles. Hola!


We agree with their slogan. So good.


You get the chicken, I'll order the pork.

After dinner we drove a few blocks to the beautiful old Helms Bakery. This beautiful, old factory lay decrepit and about to be destroyed until it was rescued at the last minute and turned to more modern use as shops and performance spaces. At one of those spaces, the Jazz Bakery, we bought tickets to see the Cedar Walton Quartet and enjoyed a few lovely hours of some great jazz, including a memorable rendition of Smoke Gets In Your Eyes.


At the Jazz Bakery on Washington in Culver City.


A nice venue for some cool jazz - the Jazz Bakery.

We left Maya and Matt to return downtown where we dropped of Lynn and Mike. Then we made our way, very tiredly, to our hotel and a good night's sleep.