We Visit An Ancient Town Famous For Its Ceramics - Caltagirone

Nov 6, 2010

On Thursday, November 4th, we decided to take a day trip that we'd repeat to different locations several times during our week in Modica. This day we'd visit another UNESCO World Heritage city - Caltagirone, about an hour's ride from Modica. I didn't mention it previously but this area of southeast Sicily was flattened by a devastating earthquake in 1693. At that time, Sicily was ruled by Spain and the area was rebuilt in the architectural choice of its ruler - Spanish baroque. Thus are these cities wonderful and unique treasures of that style of construction. Nothing remains of the ancient buildings that preceded the earthquake. In that regard, these are all new cities built from the 1700's on.

Caltagirone has been known as a center of ceramics production through the ages. The craft was brought to the region by the Moorish artisans of the Byzantine empire. Local pottery with typical Sicilian subject matter and tiles are produced in studios and shops throughout the city. And the bridges and stairs are decorated with tiles produced by those artists who study at a ceramics school located in this town.

The city's most famous feature is the Scala of Santa Maria del Monte, a fabulous 17th century staircase of seveal hundred steps that ascends to a church of the same name on high. Each riser is decorated with a unique ceramic tile design! The view from on top is breathtaking.

If this were Brooklyn we'd be sipping Americanos in Prospect Perk, our local cafe of choice, but we're in Italy so instead we are Americanos sipping espresso in a cafe in Caltagirone. Huh?
 Remember, you can click on any photo to see it larger and clearer.

Caltagirone - a UNESCO World Heritage town, known through the ages for its ceramics. Even its bridges are decorated with tiles!

Bridge decorations in Caltagirone.  Click the picture to see it larger and clearer.

The 16th century Scala Santa Maria del Monte - each step is decorated with a ceramic tile of unique design.

Each riser's design is different than any other.

Kids run down la scala. We noticed the Star of David design on the bottom step here. Many of these towns in Sicily had Jewish communities in the middle ages. I should note that these tiles are from the modern era and made by contemporary artists of today's Caltagirone.

Tiles on one of the risers. Each riser's design is different than any other's. Click the picture to see it larger and clearer.

That's Brian making his way up the steps.

After our climb up and down la scala, we searched for a restaurant that had been given good reviews online: Il Locandatiere - The Innkeeper. It was said to have good food, typical of the region and specializing in fish: the reviews were right on! Pasta con pesche for Ellen, pasta con vongole (clams) for me, pasta with jackfish for Brian and Stacey also had fish but without the pasta.

Lunch at Il Locandiere - The Innkeeper, a lovely fish restaurant in Caltagirone.  Click the picture to see it larger and clearer.

Here's my spaghetti with vongole (clams).

In one of the city's hundreds of ceramic shops.

We made our way back to our car and the drive home to Modica. Dinner was in a pizzeria in our neighborhood in Alta Modica - simple, cheap and rewarding. Tomorrow, we venture to yet another town, nearby Ragusa. But that's another day. Now for some sweet repose. And buona notte to you my friends, as well.   - da Matteo in Sicilia.

To see ALL of today's Caltagirone photos, simply CLICK HERE!