Our days on the Vineyard pretty much follow a set pattern. We wake early, perhaps at 7:00 a.m. After some futzing around the house, we get on our bikes and head off for some 5 miles or so to the town center of West Tisbury. That's where a famous general store, Alley's, is located. Alley's progeny, Back Alley's, is, given it's name, right behind the store at the back of the parking lot. Here, one can have one's bagel and coffee, a sandwich or a pastry. These are consumed on benches in front of the store where you can watch the comings and goings of natives and visitors as they drive or bike up in order to fill up.
Somehow, government on the Vineyard has found a way to keep rampant development at bay. (So the opposite than in New York City, it seems, where real estate moguls and politicians seem to tango in lockstep.) So in the towns on the western half of the island (up-island as the natives say) there is little to no commercial establishments. There's nothing outside of the towns and in town, a store or two, a gas station -- that's it. And you get along. And nicely, thank you.
Of course, the downside of this is very high prices (just being on an island drives prices up, but the lack of competition doesn't help either). Down Island, on the other hand, is more populated and better appointed, with a much larger selection of stores.
If I had a choice, I'd go for the present state of things. Martha's Vineyard remains, for the most part, an unspoiled, uncommercialized vacation spot. There are no (none!) chain stores with the exception of two Stop'n Shops. There are plenty of tourist shops and clothing stores for the shopping addicts. But there's also wild and beautiful nature and lots of it. Beautiful beaches, clay cliffs, miles of car-free bike paths, the most magnificent homes, gardens and flowers, ocean views and unmatched flora that is spread throughout. Crowds and all, there's so much to love about this place that we can't help but return here over and over.
....
On Thursday, we drove to Chilmark for breakfast at one of the above-mentioned stores. On the way we passed the Chilmark flea market - like other markets on the island, a weekly occurrence. We returned to it after breakfast and spent an hour perusing the merchandise. This seemed more like a crafts fair than a real flea-market but it was fun nonetheless.
A flea market on Middle Road - crafts, flea and farmers markets are a regular occurrence.
Whaddya think?
Roses grow everywhere and anywhere! Cottage in Oak Bluffs.
Beautiful gardens surround beautiful, old houses. And, oh, the fragrance!
Cottages in Oak Bluffs surround a Tabernacle that dates back to a 19th century camp meeting ground. Hallelujah!
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